Indeed, we are now into 2024, which means we have been on this retirement journey for 9 years! (and the motorhome is now 20 years old … good deal). And there is nothing on the calendar for the year! So what new adventures are ahead for us? Let’s find out.
When we last posted, we had just finished a short trip to Pigeon Forge, Gatlinburg and the Smoky Mountains. Fun time in the fall. Just before that we returned to Alaska to explore all the way north to Denali in search of bears and other wildlife. I have just finished up a video of that adventure and posted it to our YouTube channel. Check it out: Back to Alaska
So the rest of October was a two week camping trip back to St. Andrews State Park in Panama City, Florida – a tough spot to get a reservation but a favorite location for us. The motorhome was packed up and ready to roll, so off we went, south around Atlanta and on to Columbus toward Alabama. We usually stop for one night in Eufaula to break up the trip.
Well, as we were motoring along the interstate outside Columbus on a sunny, clear day, Jeep in tow, I heard a loud “bang” from the back of the motorhome. I gripped the wheel, looked in my sideview mirrors and ran through thoughts of a blown tire or generator explosion, since it looked like something happened on the rear driver’s side. I eased off the gas, gently applied the brakes, and looked for an opening to pull off the road. Best spot was to move left and into the shoulder of the median, without fishtailing or making things worse. I noticed a small pickup a bit behind me that looked to be doing the same thing. Mind you, this all happened pretty quickly.
Once stopped, I hopped out to check the tire, but it was fine. However, the entire side of the motorhome was a mess from there on back. The Jeep was fine, but the doors to the generator, water and electric service were crumpled, ripped and smeared with black. What the heck was all this?? The pickup had stopped on the shoulder back behind me, so I ran to it and noticed the front right side was all crumpled as well. “What happened?” I asked the driver and passenger. Did you have a blowout? Their tire was flat, so I figured maybe it blew and caused them to hit my back quarter.
All I got from them was that the two vehicles came together and hit, suggesting I had swerved or fishtailed into their truck. Nah, not possible. Plus, I was well under the speed limit with cruise control and not weaving in lanes at all. That’s not how I drive. Well, we called 911, a local sheriff arrived who then called in the state patrol. Trooper took statements from us both and concluded that he couldn’t find who was at fault and left it at that. I have my own ideas about how I got rammed in the back, but it remains undetermined.
Well, since our electric and water hookups were now pretty much unavailable, I took some rope, did my best to tie down the bent and broken doors and we turned around to head back home. It wasn’t certain we could connect to water and electricity and I wasn’t sure they were safely functional either. Two weeks at the beach were aborted, we called to cancel the reservation and nervously made our way back along the interstate, around Atlanta and back into the driveway. A bit shook up the whole time, scratching our heads over how this all went so wrong so quickly and making the phone call to our insurance.
The next steps, over the rest of the fall, were:
Get an estimate on damage from local RV repair shop
Wait a month for them to even look at it
Get a preliminary estimate/payment from insurance adjuster
Finally get a complete estimate from repair shop (3 times original estimate)
Go to RV shop to drain water and winterize (since we have had many days of freezing temps – go figure)
Repair shop orders parts (over holidays, so it will be 6-8 week wait)
Wait for parts to arrive … still waiting at this point
Hope the repairs are done in time to enjoy some camping in April
It’s now February and despite a rather gloomy outlook for getting the motorhome back, plus needing brakes and tires checked and running a full 100,000 mile engine checkup, we went ahead and planned a late April/May three-week adventure. We have all the reservations set at parks in Kentucky, Ohio, West Virginia and Tennessee for a trip dubbed our “Bourbon Trail.” There are plenty of distilleries we want to visit, plus lots of caves, hiking trails, waterfalls and Churchill Downs (yes, we will be in Louisville during Derby Week). Stay tuned for stories about the trip.
Oh, and on the rest of the maintenance schedule is some flooring repair and replacement. When we were packing up to leave Pigeon Forge the living room slide got caught on the carpet and ripped a strip off. Now this is a 20 year old carpet, so it wasn’t a total shame, but it does mean we have to figure out how to replace the floor for the main section of the motorhome. Summer project, I guess. By now you are probably saying “no thanks, I don’t want a motorhome,” but you would be wrong to think that. We have had so many great adventures that would not have been possible without this trusty van. It’s just part of the deal – like owning a home that always needs a little TLC.
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If you have been following our blog, you know that we just completed another great adventure – this one to Alaska with family. (If you didn’t read Part One, this might be the time to go back and catch up). We sailed on a northbound Celebrity cruise from Vancouver to Seward aboard the Millennium, a ship we were familiar with from our 2018 southbound cruise. From there we added excursions and travel to Anchorage, Denali and Talkeetna. This part starts with our disembarkation in Seward.A video of highlights is posted here: Back to Alaska
After posting Part One, Norm sent me some pictures of their excursions, so I’ll add them here:
Flight home, over Mt. St. Helens
Vancouver, Granville Island and Lions Gate Bridge
Ketchikan Salmon
Icy Strait Point and Rental Side-by-sides
Juneau Whale Watching
Chilkoot River Rafting, Haines (from Skagway)
Hubbard Glacier
So back to Seward and our disembarkation. Jeff and Vickie were going to catch a midday bus to Anchorage and then fly back home to South Carolina. Norm, Linda and Carol were to catch a bus to Anchorage early to rent a car and then drive to Denali. Jackie and I were set with a 4 hour cruise around the Kenai Fjords from Seward before catching a late bus to Anchorage to spend the night. We would then start our land portion of the trip, catching the Wilderness Train to Denali and meeting up with Norm, Linda and Carol.
It was a drizzly start to the day in Seward as we disembarked the ship, bags in tow. Breakfast in the main dining room was actually quite delicious and as we were finishing up our eggs Benedict Norm popped in to say they were headed off the ship and on to Anchorage and would see us tomorrow in Denali. Once ashore we arranged for our bags to get held at a local hotel until our bus to Anchorage arrived. We caught a free shuttle into town and made our way to Waterfront Park and the Sea Life Center. Unfortunately we just didn’t have the time to tour the center, but we did scan the shoreline and harbor to spot whales, otters, eagles … hoping it would be like our last visit. No luck. We did learn that this was the original starting point of the Iditarod race. Oh, but look at those folks – it’s Jeff and Vickie and luggage hopping off the shuttle to do the same waterfront scan!
We walked around a bit and looked for a lunch spot we remembered. Had ourselves a splendid rockfish sandwich and beer, said “safe travels home” to Jeff and Vic and headed over to the dock for our excursion. The boat for the 4 hour cruise was a good size and super comfortable. It was almost more of a small ferry, with assigned seating around tables and next to wide, clean windows. There was plenty of outdoor space for viewing, once we cleared the harbor and headed out to Kenai Fjords to explore.
At first it seemed this was going to be a bob-around with nothing to see except clouds and drizzle, but we were treated to some gorgeous coastline, small waterfalls and soon some wildlife. Our binoculars worked great, but my camera’s long lens didn’t give me a crisp focus on all of the shoreline wildlife – not my best photos. We found a cluster of Steller sea lions who were barking and croaking at each other, surrounded by hundreds of kittiwake gulls perched on the rock faces and flying about. Bobbing in the water were two species of puffin, the horned and the tufted, with common murres diving about. Up on the hillside we spotted a couple of mountain goats just hanging out on the cliffs.
The boat ventured out into the edge of the Gulf of Alaska’s open water a bit to try and find some of the last humpback whales, but we didn’t spot them.
On the other shore, the Kenai Fjords National Park, were some picturesque islands, covered with Sitka spruce and moss. A group of harbor seals were sunning on the rocks and sea otters bobbed along the shoreline. Those darn otters are so cute. More puffins were on the rock ledges and in the water. Bald eagles perched on trees. Very colorful. Even though we didn’t spot whales, there was plenty of cool wildlife to see. Once we had a cell signal again we got a message from Vickie that Jeff might have left his backpack at a local food truck, would we please check? (In all the hustle and bustle of transfers and luggage, it is rather easy to do).
Back ashore we quickly found the spot she described, but no backpack and the food truck was closed. The harbormaster’s office was closed, too, but we got phone numbers and left messages. It was getting late, so we sat for a beer in the Stoney Creek Brewhouse and waited for the bus. I ran next door to another popular food “bus” to grab us some food while Jackie continued to ask around about Jeff’s backpack. No luck.
After a 3 hour bus ride to Anchorage we hopped off the bus, with luggage, and tried to get our bearings to walk to our hotel – in the rain. Kinda got turned around a bit, but checked into a nice room, crashed and then up early to catch a cab to the train station for our trip on the Wilderness Express car of the Alaska Railroad headed to Denali. This was really special. The upper floor of the rail car was an observation dome and our assigned seats were in front of the bar. The lower floor was a dining room for breakfast and lunch that would be served (this is a 7 – 8 hour trip). Out of the station we rolled, leaving Anchorage behind and winding along the mountains of the Chugach State Park and across the Knik River. It was still cloudy and rainy, so we didn’t see the peaks of the mountains, but what we did see was spectacular. Little ponds and grassy marshes that should be perfect for moose (none), river crossings of grey glacial runoff and forests of dark green spruce stunted by permafrost.
We climbed to over 3,400 feet, but you hardly noticed it (until your ears popped). We did notice there were large areas of brown spruce and were told that spruce beetles have been pretty devastating to the forests the past few years. There was no Wi-Fi aboard and very spotty cell service, but somehow Jackie got a call from the Seward harbormaster that yes indeed they had Jeff’s pack, so Jackie connected them with Vickie and they were set to work out the details of sending it home.
Breakfast was a hearty mix of scrambled eggs, taters and reindeer sausage, served with china and tablecloths. Almost felt like the Orient Express. Lunch was equally delicious, though we had only one drink since our limitless drink package aboard the cruise ship had expired.
We had a short stop in Talkeetna and along the Susitna River. This was where we would spend the night on the return trip, so we peered out at the small town. It really acts as a basecamp for the many climbers who head to the southern side of Mt. Denali. We pulled out and headed north, crossing Hurricane Gulch on the longest and highest Alaska Railroad bridge, many of us crowded on the viewing platform for photos. The train passed through a flag-stop stretch that meant folks who had no other means of access besides the train would put a flag out on a pole to indicate they needed to board.
Arriving in Denali we caught our shuttle to the Denali Bluffs and it wasn’t long before we were checked in to our room. It faced Denali and even had a small balcony, although the temperature was dropping as the rain was clearing. Carol’s lodging was in a nice cabin a few miles back, but when she learned that the bathhouse was a short walk away and she should watch for bears, that arrangement quickly changed to a different lodge and cabin with Norm and Linda. One with a bathroom included.
Connecting with Norm, Linda and Carol was tricky, since Norm had only a weak signal and that was through Facebook messenger. But we did share plans for the morning and opted to eat dinner in the lodge dining room with some local beer and barbecue (I know, what do Alaskans know about good barbecue? But it was just right). We were early to bed so we could catch the Wildlife Tundra Tour bus in the morning. Jackie bought sandwiches to go and we had water and a snack box on the bus, so we were good for food. Now for the wildlife. And views of Mt. Denali.
You may have read that a portion of the roadway into Denali was wiped away in a landslide of the soil and permafrost – actually, the road crossed a moving rock glacier. Replacing that section, which is less than halfway into the park, will be a couple of years to complete. That meant our trip was only about 6 hours, out and back. But that was plenty of time to see some caribou, brown bear, Dall sheep, golden eagles and ground squirrels. Moose not so much. Mt. Denali not so much either – it was hidden in clouds. Still, it was scenery that you won’t find anywhere else, as the glacier-scooped tundra valleys and sharp mountain peaks are spectacular. Fall was just starting to turn the leaves and grasses golden and red, a nice contrast with the green spruce. In a case of the movie Endless Summer’s line “you should have seen the waves yesterday,” Norm and Carol confessed that on their first day in the park (while we were on the train) they actually had a moose cross the road in front of them. Norm supplied the photo as proof. Darn!
For dinner, Norm drove us up to Healy and 49th State Brewing. This was an interesting spot for a few reasons. First of all, it looked like a huge warehouse with an outdoor beer garden, but inside it was extremely busy and lively – especially for a Sunday night. Most of Healy’s 1,000 residents must have been there. We had another delicious meal (huge plates of halibut tacos, crab toasted cheese and seafood chowder) with flights of beer and Carol’s gin and tonic. She had a heavy pour in an old fashion glass, so Jackie had to help her order more tonic in a TALL glass.
Maybe the most intriguing part of the scene was the green and white bus in the beer garden. If you ever saw the movie or read the book “Into the Wild” you would know it is the one that Chris McCandless lived in, just about 40 miles from Healy. This one was a reproduction used in the movie. The original was removed by helicopter and moved to Fairbanks due to visitor safety concerns.
We had time the next morning to drive back into Denali on our own and we were determined to find moose. We all diligently looked among the spruce, in tundra fields and down along the rock-filled dry creeks and several beaver ponds. We did see two beavers swimming around, but no moose. We were driving through areas marked “caution, moose rut in progress” but no luck. Then, as we have learned, we stopped where others stopped and jumped out to see what they found. Yes, there was a moose walking between trees. A bit far off, but a bull with a nice rack. And further along we spotted others, all just a bit farther off than we could easily capture on camera.
One last stop at the marvelous visitors center and it was time to leave the park and head to Talkeetna. We were scheduled for a late flightseeing trip on board a small plane that would take us up and around Denali for a bird’s eye view. With the rain continuing and the low cloud ceiling, it was doubtful. Yep, halfway to Talkeetna we got a text that the weather would not allow flights and ours was canceled. Darn, that was to have been the last special treat on this trip. Denali was not going to reveal itself to us this time.
The rain continued on and off and by the time we crossed the swollen Susitna River and arrived at the Susitna River Lodge and Cabins we were just a little concerned about flooding. Riverside is nice, but not when the firepit for your cabin is half submerged in the riverbank. The cabin was cozy and welcoming, but only had beds for 4, so Carol was once again lodged elsewhere in town. She was a good sport about staying one night in a motel that was more like a small dorm room, but at least she had her own bathroom. (Can’t feel too sorry for her, after all she had an aft facing balcony suite onboard Millennium). Still, that river looked awfully close and portions of main street were already closed off due to flooding.
It didn’t stop us from shopping the small cottages in town and stopping in Nagley’s General Store to say hi to the mayor. Some years back the town appointed a friendly local cat as unofficial mayor and his successor lives in the store. Yes, there he was, greeting anyone willing to scratch behind his (her?) ears. That’s just the kind of place this was, quirky and charming – and wet.
Denali Brewpub was on our list of places to try, so we found a table under a canopy next to the firepit and ordered up some beer and food. I did want to have something from Mountain Pizza just next door, but nobody else was in a pizza mood, so I deferred. Good thing, since the sweet potato fries served with my deep fried halibut were amazing. Big wedges of roasted sweet potato that were crisp on the outside and creamy inside. Nice dipping sauce with just a little heat. Yum. Across from us was another possibility: a food truck that advertised Halibut Tacos, but we were quite content with our meal. I noticed a walk-up window for pastries at the Talkeetna Roadhouse and was hoping to snag some, but it said “sold out, come back Friday.” This was on a Monday, so maybe I am out of luck all week.
The rain tapered off and the river didn’t rise any further, so we were in for a quiet night. We thought. Round about 4:30 in the morning we heard a loud ‘boom,’ then silence. Nothing else, no lightning, no thunder, no rescue sirens. Hmm. We all heard it, but nothing more. In the morning Norm picked up Carol in town, barely a half-mile off, and they came back with the answer. The Halibut Taco food truck had exploded. Flattened. No fire, no significant damage to nearby buildings. We had to go drive by and check it out, but felt bad for the owners. Many in town were helping sort through the damage and I suspect that the mayor was helping with some of that halibut! The local news reported it was a propane leak and no one was injured in the blast, but pieces did fly across the street.
It was time to head to Anchorage and catch our flights back home. The low clouds lifted, revealing the towering mountains we were driving through, and lush marshes and fields were dotted with aspen and spruce, but no other wildlife that we could see. Downtown we returned the rental van and caught two cabs to the airport. We said our goodbyes, checked our bags and had one more task before leaving. A longtime family friend lived in Anchorage and I was anxious to catch up, even for just a quick drink. Cassie was the sister of my good friend Laurie, who had just passed away this spring and it had been too long since we met up.
She was expecting our call and met us at the airport for a short drive to Midnight Sun Brewing (of course a brewery, what did you expect?). There we had a flight, toasted old friends and caught up on family news. Her husband Russ, who is also a teacher, caught up with us and we all enjoyed some good eats – it was Taco Tuesday, so of course we obliged, along with a cup of beer cheese soup with toppings and a delicious roll. One last drive through a local park known to host a moose or two (no sighting) before dropping us at the airport and our trip back to Atlanta and we bid farewell.
Red-eye flights back east are really not special at all. The time difference, seven hour flying time, completely full capacity, tight seats and minimal cabin service really didn’t make flying fun at all – even with Delta. That’s ok, we slept most of the day we got home, trying to adjust and recover from this amazing Alaska adventure. I hope the pictures help you get just a peek at the uniqueness of this state that has a scale like nothing else. Even though we didn’t get to see the largest mountain in North America, Mt. Denali, it was still worth the trip. Planes, trains, buses, ships, boats, vans, cars, taxis, transit and hiking – what an adventure.
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“Chichagof Island has the highest concentration of bears in the world at 1 – 2 bears per square mile. The Alaska Brown Bear can weigh 1,500 lbs. and have a reach of 12 feet. See those scratch marks high up that tree trunk? From a large male no doubt,” our Tlingit guide whispered as we walked quietly along the path. We were walking along a creek on a moss covered trail trying to spot a bear. That observation really didn’t help our nerves. Just moments before, we saw one leaning back against a tree by the stream. She moved into the brush, met up with her cub and was pulling down branches to reach the berries. We were trying to get a closer look. Did we?
Well here we go again, off on another adventure! This one started last fall when we decided a return visit to Alaska was in order. Jackie really wanted to go when bears were most active, which is toward the end of summer when the salmon make their run upstream to breed. That meant we were looking at a mid-August cruise with an extra visit up to Denali. So we spent days comparing the options and plotting the best way to see everything we wanted – within budget, since Alaska is pricey. We settled on a northbound Celebrity cruise from Vancouver to Seward aboard the Millennium, a ship we were familiar with from our 2018 southbound cruise. From there we added excursions and travel to Anchorage, Denali and Talkeetna. It should be fun!
As news of the cruise spread among family members, we were asked by my sister Linda and Norm if they could join us. Sure. Can you add us to the Denali Wildlife Bus Tour? Sure. A bit later we added Norm’s cousin from Australia, Carol, and then my brother Jeff and Vickie jumped into plans for the cruise portion. We were now a happy band of seven headed north. A video of highlights is posted here: Back to Alaska
The packing goal for the trip was to check one bag and have one carryon, with a backpack. With all the possible layers for rain, cold, cruise attire and whatever, we barely got the bags closed. Off we flew to Vancouver via a short hop from Seattle (and by the way, flying is really no fun anymore), arriving almost before we left, time-zone wise. We took the city transit train from the airport to the waterfront, which was very clean and timely and checked into the Pan Pacific hotel at Canada Place, right where the cruise ship loaded. The Queen Elizabeth was docked when we arrived and looked splendid.
Norm, Carol and Linda had arrived a day earlier and we were able to meet them at the lobby bar for afternoon drinks. Lots of catching up and chatter about what was to come, then around the corner we went to have dinner. Rogue was a great spot at one end of the train station where we had local Steamworks beer and delicious food. By the time we walked back to the hotel Jeff and Vickie had arrived and we all took some time to walk around the pier and admire the lively city waterfront and late sunset. Vancouver has lots of cool buildings, rooftop gardens and lots of flower baskets, with rather mild weather, so it made for a delightful evening.
One benefit of staying at the hotel is that your bags are portered to the ship in the morning and you have only to take the elevator down to the ship’s check-in desk. We were onboard well before noon and searching for our “spot” to have drinks and lunch. That spot became a corner table at the Sunset Bar at the stern of the ship, just outside the buffet. It was a beautiful, sunny and warm afternoon of drinks and chatting before sailing away under the Lions Gate Bridge and out of Vancouver harbor.
Alaska cruises are a bit different from Caribbean cruises in that the ports and excursions matter almost more than activities aboard ship. Combined with the time difference (3 and 4 hours) from the east coast, it makes for early mornings and not so late evenings. But the excitement kept us going on day one and Jeff and I found ourselves at the craps table later at night, doing well and coming away ahead of the game.
Northbound found us sleeping through most of the narrow Inside Passage, a scenic cruise past seaside villages, lighthouses and salmon farms, but the next day was a sea day of travel, cold and cloudy. We spotted quite a few humpback whales off the sides of the ship as we headed north. Not too close, but close enough to watch them blow and then pop their tails out before diving. That evening Jackie and I had dinner at a unique specialty dining spot onboard: Le Petit Chef. This was a meal that featured a projected story on our table with an animated tiny chef preparing our food. As we progressed through the courses, the server would add the actual plated food that matched the animation. Quite entertaining!
Our next day was in port at Ketchikan – site of a major salmon run. Jackie and I had an early excursion on a small boat that took us along the coastline looking for whales and wildlife. It was a wonderfully scenic and smooth run along the islands and coastline where we saw harbor seals, a few bald eagles, black-tailed Sitka deer and marbled murrelet, but no bears or whales. Since it was low tide we did see some very colorful starfish tucked into the rocks – both purple and orange, so that was neat.
Back in Ketchikan we walked along Creek Street and the salmon ladders and saw tons of salmon making their way upstream. There were just so many fish they covered the entire stream bottom. At the deepest end of the creek was a harbor seal diving around, no doubt making a meal of them. An impressive display of the migration upstream to spawn. Oh, and Vickie said she saw a bear. Right there along the creek near the salmon ladder. Just a quick glance before he ducked back into the shrubs and before she could alert anyone. I could see the disappointment in Jackie’s face at the news, and of course we couldn’t find the bear.
Our next stop was at Icy Strait Point, or Hoonah, to explore for bears. I love this port for the simplicity and emphasis on the local culture. The main buildings are an old salmon cannery and sit well above the waterline. If I recall correctly, there is about a 15 foot difference between tides. Our excursion was in a van with six others as our local Tlingit driver took us through the Whitestone Logging Camp and surrounding creeks and woodlands in search of Alaska brown bear. That is where this story started, when we were trying to get a second look at a female and cub.
We didn’t spot that pair again, while walking through the brush. But we did continue to drive around the logging roads and paused at the bridge crossings. Our guide told us these bears had some polar bear DNA, which accounts for their larger size and color variations. They are also well fed from their salmon diet, preferring to eat the roe and brains from the females and tossing away the males. Of course all sorts of berries were good to eat, too.
As we checked out more creek crossings the young lady next to me said “bear” and we stopped to quietly slip out of the van and take a look. Yep, there were two walking along the creek bank not noticing us. The youngster moved out to the streambed where he looked back at us looking at him and decided that was a bit too much and turned to disappear into the brush. But we all had a good look.
We saw at least one or two more and while searching the roads we heard lots of stories about life among the bears and the precautions the local children are all taught.
Back aboard ship we heard from the rest of the group about their adventure with side-by-sides and travels around some of the same woods we did, but unfortunately they did not spot bears.
After a delicious dinner we sat out at our spot at the Sunset Bar to enjoy the sail away and share stories of the day. The food and service aboard ship was really just wonderful and the drink selection was perfect. Jackie was happy to get her Woodford Reserve bourbon with ginger ale in a TALL glass, as was I. Dinner in the main dining room was white tablecloths and rather elegant and with one exception (first formal night) we were able to get the dining times we wanted. A few nights we opted for the buffet, which had some really good food. Lunch had a delicious charcuterie presentation of meats and cheeses, displays of desserts were amazing and the ice cream selection was a bonus (especially the After Eight mint chocolate).
Juneau was our next port of call and the weather continued to be sunny and rather mild. Jackie and I planned to head to the Mendenhall Glacier and others were headed to whale watching and exploring town. On our previous visit it was easy to catch a bus to the visitors center so we had no problem finding the City Bus this time and riding out to Mendenhall. EXCEPT that the bus stopped short of the visitors center – by a mile and a half. It seems the National Park Service limits visitation to the glacier and only issues a certain number of permits for transportation to and from. Taxis, shuttles. buses and private coaches must have valid permits to drop off or pick up visitors and by the end of the season they have mostly used up their quota. And the city bus doesn’t stop there anyway.
Aw heck, it can’t be that bad, eh? Well it was getting to be a nice warm day, we had our layers of long sleeves and raincoats and backpack with cameras, binoculars and, well, it was a darn long mile and a half trek. We did have some nice views on the approach and Jackie enjoyed the visitors center, but I just had to hike the mile further in to see Nugget Creek Falls and then back around to get better views from the Photo Point. Ah, but that walk back to the bus stop … As we got about halfway I noticed a van stop, turn and drop off two folks just ahead. Looked like a taxi to me, so I waved frantically – the van waited and I breathlessly asked if he was headed back to town. While agreeing to take us back, two other hikers ran up and asked to split the fare so it was a much faster and easier return trip back. Thank goodness.
In town, Jeff and Vickie had a crab feast at Tracy’s Crab Shack, we had good eats at the Alaskan Brewery and we met up with Norm, Linda and Carol at the Red Dog Saloon for Alaska Duck Fart shots. It’s a locally famous layered shot of Kahlua, Baileys and Canadian whiskey. Norm met up with a work colleague who was on another cruise – what luck! We really wanted to ride the tram to the top of Mt. Roberts, but we just ran out of energy. We did all spend time on the aft deck searching the mountainsides for Dall sheep – spotting several. And we left port later at night, so it was magical watching the other ships set sail.
Skagway was our next stop and another sunny day. At this port we had a midday helicopter flight to a glacier planned so it was wonderful to see clear weather. Jackie and I made our way to the TEMSCO heliport, sat through the safety video, put on the ice boots and lifejacket belt and got ready to fly. Front seat for Jackie, ready to assist the pilot I guess! There were four of us plus pilot in the chopper and we each had a good view and headphones to communicate. The flight up and over the water, through the mountain passes and landing down on the glacial ice was thrilling.
Once out and on the ice the helicopters took the previous tour back and we were left with a couple of guides to explain the glaciers (and tell us why there was so much rubble). It was a chilly 40 degrees and windy, but totally amazing. Cracks in the ice were a beautiful shade of blue, with stones suspended within. Rivulets became small streams that carved through the ice or disappeared down deep holes. We were invited to lean down for a taste of the water – I leaned over and just scooped up a mouthful – cold and crisp. We walked around the glacier for nearly an hour and it was just incredible, a bit like a moonscape – and cold.
The last trip to Alaska and the Hubbard Glacier was a rainy, windy visit with lots of sea ice, so we really didn’t get good views of the seven mile long icy front face. This time it was much different. We were able to get very close to the glacier as the ship then spun to share the view with all sides of the ship. We saw and heard several calving moments (when the ice splits off) and I spotted a harbor seal on a chunk of sea ice as we cruised into the bay. A great look at the blue ice and the ragged chunks of glacial rock and ice. Very cool.
That night was “pack up” time and we all spent time stuffing everything back into our bags and preparing for what came the next day. Jeff and I had cashed in our winnings at the casino the night before, but had to try our luck one more time at the craps table. Mistake – minor loss on that last night. We paid a last visit to the martini bar, grabbed some eats at the buffet and had drinks at “our spot” at the stern, although the weather was turning colder and wetter. The next morning was our disembarkation in Seward where each of us had different plans. Jeff and Vickie were going to catch a midday bus to Anchorage and then fly back home to South Carolina. Norm, Linda and Carol were to catch a bus to Anchorage early to rent a car and then drive to Denali. Jackie and I were set with a 4 hour cruise around the Kenai Fjords from Seward before catching a late bus to Anchorage to spend the night. We would then start our land portion of the trip, catching the Wilderness Train to Denali and meeting up with Norm, Linda and Carol.
So for that portion of the trip I will start a second blog, Part Two. For now I will try to gather some of the many photos and post this segment. Stay tuned for more of our return trip to Alaska (and maybe soon some YouTube video – but my GoPro Studio has been glitchy lately). Thanks for joining us on the adventure.
The great Alaskan adventure continues for the four explorers: Doug, Jackie, Jeff and Vicki. This June trip-of-a-lifetime had a great start in Anchorage and Seward, Alaska and continues south through the Inside Passage aboard the cruise ship Celebrity Millennium. This was our first time aboard a Celebrity ship and we were well impressed. The food and service were just wonderful, our oceanview staterooms were generous and the vibe onboard was relaxed and comfortable. Blankets on the upper decks were handy on chilly, wet days and the pools and hot tubs were refreshing on a couple of rather warm sea days.
Arriving in Skagway, the rainy, cloudy weather began to clear and we could see the mountains that surrounded this gold rush town and the valley up the White Pass. The rocky wall alongside the dock was painted with the names of ships that had visited this port and we could see the rail cars of the White Pass and Yukon Route narrow guage railway lined up alongside our ship. Jackie and I had tickets booked for this ride and Jeff and Vic were hoping their helicopter ride to glaciers was still going to happen that day.
Our trip up the White Pass was great fun, as we climbed through the valley, across trestles and through tunnels, tracing the route of the Klondike gold rush stampede. We crossed into Canada and stopped at Fraser to have a look at the surrounding glacial tarn (lakes) and till (rocks). That’s also where we hopped a bus for the return trip back down to Skagway.
We spent the rest of the day exploring town, one that retains its gold rush charm, and peeled off a layer as the day cleared and got rather warm. The Red Onion Saloon and brothel, Klondike Brewery, (Trail Coffee Blonde and Lost at Sea Coconut Brown Ale) and Skagway Brewing (Spruce Tip Ale and Blue Top Porter) were highlights. Klondike Brewery had just opened a month earlier and had some really good brews.
When we met up with Jeff and Vicki back on board, they recounted how exciting their flight to the glacier was, with about 40 minutes spent on the glacier observing a moulin (vertical shaft with meltwater) and tasting glacial water. We had another great meal in the dining room a return visit to the martini bar and watched our departure for Icy Strait Point from the upper decks. The views as we pulled away from shore and down through the fjord were just breathtaking!
On day 5 we were headed to Hoonah, a small town that has an upgraded wharf and dock courtesy of the cruise line that is now rebranded as Icy Strait Point. It is a wonderful spot to shop in the converted salmon cannery, try the long zipline, wander through old growth rainforest or catch a whale watching excursion.
The whale watching is what Jackie and I were ready for as we motored out of the Hoonah marina on a beautiful, calm morning in a small boat. A pair of bald eagles watched us leave the dock as we sped off in search of humpbacks. The boat slowed as we passed patches of kelp and spotted a sea otter with youngster just feet from the boat.
Look! Over there, a whale blow (puff of steam) and we were in the midst of several humpbacks. We drifted about quietly as we listened to them surface, blow and then dive down, treating us to several views of tail flukes. Among them were porpoises bobbing up and down and then suddenly up ahead we had a full on breach of 15-20 feet of water and whale up out of the water. It went by so quickly that it was almost missed by most of us. Altogether we probably spotted a dozen humpbacks, plus a sea lion lounging on a channel marker. Another great day on the water. Watch the video of our whale watching and wildlife spotting on the trip here: Alaska Whales and Wildlife 2018
Once back on shore and walking around the old cannery, I lost Jackie but caught up with Jeff and Vicki. Jeff had done a toe dip in the water off shore and declared it cold.
When we finally found Jackie she was in a panic about lost binoculars – did she leave them onboard the excursion boat? Shuttle van? Restroom? A bit of a scramble led to the lost and found desk at the excursions desk and luckily they had been found and turned in. Ok then, crisis averted.
It was an early afternoon departure from Icy Strait, as we made room for another Celebrity cruise ship to dock. The sail away was another beautiful one as we scanned the water for more whales and the shorelines for bears. We were not disappointed, as we saw about 8 – 10 humpbacks cooperatively feeding in the distance, but only “rock bears” on shore.
Ketchikan was our next port of call and the beautiful weather continued. Ketchikan is a busy port and we were joined by another cruise ship along the dock. We were in search of totems in this town, plus a visit to Creek Street, home to many brothels that operated into the 1950’s. Each couple headed out to explore town and do some souvenir shopping.
Jackie and I wandered up along the Creek Streets boardwalks, stopping a moment to read about Dolly’s Place and several of the business women of the area. Salmon are an important part of the local economy and the upper area of the Ketchikan Creek had a cool salmon ladder that bypassed the waterfall. We stopped in at the Totem Heritage Center to learn more about the story poles.
On our walk back to the wharf we passed a cute cottage with an artfully designed rock and container garden. We met the owner, Cora, and had a good conversation about gardens and the challenges of keeping deer and slugs away from the plants. It seems deer are one critter we have in common. I told her about my glass totem hobby and suggested she consider trying her hand at the glass sculptures. (I later read her nice comment on the blog).
As we crossed the Ketchikan Creek there was a bit of commotion. We noticed a fisherman on the bridge had a salmon hooked with a pretty light spinning rig and was trying to keep him hooked while moving off the bridge and down the rocky shore – in sandals. We got to see the big fish as he wrestled him ashore and we were pretty certain he would have to hurry before an eagle snatched it up. But he walked off with his trophy – a darn nice catch!
Onboard was our second “chic” night and I wore a totally appropriate tie given to me by a student a few years back. The tie featured Tlingit art salmon – perfect tribute to the places we had visited. However, it seems we were hitting some really cold air as we left Ketchikan and the ship was surrounded by thick fog. Made for an unsettling night, with the ship’s fog horn blowing regularly (umm, no big ice I hope!)
The day at sea through the Inside Passage was next, as we sailed into Canadian waters surrounded by green mountains in our narrowest fjord. It was such a nice day that much of the time was spent around the pool deck as we continued to scour the water and hillsides for wildlife. We spotted some whales blowing in the distance and saw a few porpoise in our wake.
The poolside grill featured an Alaska Crab platter for the second time, so we cracked into three big Alaskan crab legs, two crab cakes, crab bisque and a garlic roll — of course accompanied by our onboard favorite Alaskan White Ale. It was also Jackie’s birthday, so we made a fuss at dinner as she blew out the candle on her cake. The evening was delightful on the upper deck as we watched the sun actually set later that night. What a great last evening aboard as we approached our final port in Vancouver. (Well, it was still a scramble as we packed our bags for departure that night).
Next morning I was up early to watch our approach into Vancouver harbor. Quite the contrast from the small Alaskan towns we had visited. The port was busy with ferries, helicopters, seaplanes and many tankers in the harbor waiting their turn.
After breakfast we watched the load-in of fresh vegetables and fruits as we awaited our call to depart the ship. Changeover days are definitely bittersweet – you head off as a new group gets ready to board and receive their welcome champagne. Was it really only last week that we had ours?
We caught a taxi to our Best Western Sands hotel in the West End, zipping through downtown skyscrapers, midtown neighborhoods and eventually a block from the seawall. We checked our bags and hiked off in search of rental bikes to ride around nearby Stanley Park. We couldn’t really decide once we got to the rental spot and thought we were hungry, so we made our way past so many different eateries, though most were not open. Indecision led us back to our hotel and the restaurant next door, The Park Pub, where we ate another breakfast (it was barely 11 am).
This one was deliciously hearty: Vic had poutine (potatoes, eggs, cheese), Jeff had a version of steak and eggs, I had oatmeal with fruit and Jackie had fruit with yogurt. We were able to check in to our room, so up we went and promptly all crashed on the beds.
Two hours later we were up and much refreshed. So of course we had to go explore. It was a fair day along the seawall, so we walked and people-watched and discussed plans for the next day. Our flight didn’t leave until 10:30pm, so we had another whole day in town. The conversation and indecision about places to eat continued until dinner, until we found out that our hotel restaurant had $4 hamburgers for happy hour. Decision made! And it was a good one. We had burgers piled high, more fries than we could eat and cold beer to drink as we sat along the sidewalk and enjoyed the evening.
Next day we split up with instructions to meet up for an early dinner at TapShack on the harbor and then catch a cab to the airport. Jeff and Vic headed out on bikes to explore Stanley Park and we tried the Hop On, Hop Off bus tour of the city. Biking is a big deal around Vancouver, with lots of rental shops, bike lanes and a long route along the seawall and Stanley Park. Our open-air bus trip around town took us to so many places we had to do the loop twice (with walking tours here and there). We saw:
When we met up at TapShack on the waterfront under Burrard Bridge we had a delicious meal of fish tacos, yummy fresh salad, chips and salsa. Of course local beer selections, too. Probably the best beer of the trip for me was a mandarin radler. Jeff liked the Hoyne Brewing Dark Matter, a Guiness style ale. Back to the hotel, catch the cab, head through security and out to the gate to await the flight home.
Just over four hours later and we were dragging our bags to customs and a very confusing checkpoint then back home to hot and humid Atlanta weather. Another crash on the bed and visions of whales in our heads. What an adventure!
Where are we off to next? Well, we still have a few minor fixes for the motorhome before we head out in September for fall leaf spotting in the northeast and Maine. Plus, we will be watching our nephew Adam’s progress up the Appalachian Trail to see if we will meet him there in October.
Otherwise … who knows what adventures lie ahead?
By the way, if you are planning a cruise, give our travel agent Cynthia Long (617-587-6000 x 38584) at CruisesOnly a call. She was a great help booking the trip and getting us some onboard credits and extras. Mention us and we can earn points.
It’s pushing 90 degrees with high humidity as I sit to organize my thoughts and photos of our Alaskan adventure, but I am thinking of the cooler temperatures and amazing views of the mountains and waters of Alaska instead. This seven day cruise with Jackie, my brother Jeff and sister-in-law Vicki was planned out almost a year ago and it exceeded all our expectations and has left us with great memories. Now to reassemble those thoughts amid the muddle-headedness of air travel and time changes…
Part 1 – Anchorage to Juneau
Our June trip-of-a-lifetime had a great start in Anchorage and Seward, Alaska and will continue south through the Inside Passage aboard the cruise ship Celebrity Millennium.
We arrived in Anchorage barely 3 hours after we left Atlanta, but of course that was actually 7 hours of flight time later. We picked up our rental SUV at the airport and drove into town. The night was young and we were pumped, after seeing some amazing snow-covered mountains and glaciers from the plane already. This was going to be great! We dropped our bags at the Voyager Inn and walked the streets of Anchorage in search of breweries on Doug’s list, plus a recommendation for good eats at Humpy’s Great Alaskan Alehouse.
Humpy’s didn’t disappoint as we toasted the adventure to come with local brews and shared a delicious platter of cod tacos. Yummy! (Midnight Sun Oosik Amber and King Street Stout beers)
We found the 49th State Brewery, one of the craft breweries on Doug’s list, and took a seat on the rooftop terrace to sample craft beer and watch locals fishing along the nearby riverbank. And of course the backdrop of snow-covered mountain peaks still seemed unreal. (Baked Blonde and Prospector’s Gold beers).
Getting up early was no problem, since we were still on Eastern Time, and we tucked into a delicious breakfast at the hotel. Jeff and Vic were up early in search of a coffee shop, to no avail, but had a nice walk along the waterfront. I grabbed my camera and wandered about, snapping shots of hanging baskets and … ouch, I rolled my ankle pretty good on a sidewalk crack. Dangit, we had barely started the adventure and already I had an injury! Oh well, keep moving and carry on.
The big day began with our 3-hour drive to Seward along Turnagain Arm (the big bay). There was almost nobody on the road as we wound around the cliffs and along the rocky shore. All eyes were on the water for whales, but Vicki suddenly blurted out that she saw something on the rocky cliff. Off to the shoulder and out of the car, binoculars scanning. Soon we found the Dall sheep that she spotted, way up on the hillside. A little further on we stopped at Bird Point to scan the water again, but the excitement was back on the hillside again. This time there were young Dall sheep among the adults, and not far above us looking down. Good spotting.
So onward we went, the clear blue skies above, white, blue and green mountains all around us. As we recounted our sheep spotting, Jeff declared “all we need now is a moose” and just ahead someone must have heard us and pushed out the moose, because a cow and calf appeared out of the bushes at the edge of the road. No way! The little guy scampered in and out of the shrubs around mom as she munched on grass and dandelions. Wow how cool.
The rest of the drive to Seward we tried to muster up some bear, but instead got gorgeous scenery. We did spot a huge eagle nest with dad standing guard over mom and youngsters in the nest. Once we pulled into Seward we dropped our bags at the Best Western and headed to the docks for lunch and to check out the departure point. We sat outside and shared baskets of fried rockfish, salmon, calamari, halibut and cod along with some Alaskan beer. We walked back along the seawall, past a shoreline city campground and RV park and spotted some sea otters feeding on mussels along the shore. Suddenly our spotter Vicki said she saw whales off the shore, blowing puffs of steam. Well, it sure looked like that, so we ran to the rental car, drove out along the shoreline to get closer and had a great look at what we learned were humpback whales, possibly bubble feeding (the gulls were a giveaway). Wow, what a day for wildlife!
Jeff and I returned the rental car and we met up with Jackie at the van for Stoney Creek Canopy Adventures. Vic was off to explore Seward by foot and along the seawall again. Our afternoon zipline was great fun. There were tons of zips and a few really long ones over ponds and mossy woodlands. A couple of suspension bridges and two rappels down to earth added to the fun. I opted to skip the gopro and phone for pictures, since our guides promised to take several shots.
Back down in town we found Vicki, grabbed binoculars and headed out. Dinner was wood fired pizza and Rockfish Red Ale at Seward Brewing Company, another one of my craft beer destinations. Good stuff. We still had time to see eagles and otters and Harlequin ducks along the shore, since sunset was a long way off, plus Jeff spotted Dall sheep on the hillside across from our hotel balcony.
The next morning was embarkation day and it started with another delicious breakfast at the hotel. We took the town’s free shuttle to the pier and waited for boarding instructions. It was a dreary, colder and rainy morning, not at all like the gorgeous day before. Fairly soon we had our ship credentials and were headed across a windy, rainy dock to walk up the ramp and onboard the Celebrity Millennium. Cheers! We were handed glasses of champagne and noticed that we were the first four people aboard. Ok then, let’s find a cool spot to hang out. Pool bar was open and not at all busy. The crew looked like they were fishing in the pool with their yellow slickers and nets – really?
I know we had lunch on deck 10, lots to drink at various bars as we explored the ship, a fabulous dinner in the dining room, a brief rally in the casino (I lost), but all I really recall was our sail away as we passed rocky cliffs and saw swarms of Kittiwake gulls circling and covering them.
Next morning was our day at sea as we headed to the Hubbard Glacier. We crossed through some pretty bumpy water overnight and the day started cold and rainy again. Darn, where was that great weather from Seward?
Below decks we had a chance to do the galley tour along with nearly everyone else. Wow, what a big operation behind the scenes.
Our approach in toward the glacier was filled with glacial ice and the captain had to make his way gingerly through the icefield. But the colors of the floating ice were a treat, with the deep blue indicating the oldest, most compact glacial ice and black/grey stripes containing rocks and sediment. We did have a nice long look at the Hubbard Glacier as the ship spun around and the rain stopped for a bit. Some of us saw some of the “calving” – chunks of ice breaking off the front.
Heading inside to warm up, we discovered the poolside grill had great burgers and really good fries. Jeff and Vic opted for the Alaskan Crab Feast while watching the glacier and we all found out that Alaskan Brewing White and Amber ales were a good choice with lunch.
After a bit, it was time to head out to Juneau and hopefully better weather.
Yep, about that weather. Jackie and I had a morning excursion by helicopter to several glaciers and a dogsledding trip, so we were up and off the ship early. Just one thing though, the low cloud cover and drizzle meant our helicopter tour was cancelled, no chance at a re-booking later in the day. Drats. We wandered around town a bit, checking Alaskan Brewing (which was only their storefront), the Red Dog Saloon, complete with sawdust on the floors, then decided plan B would be to book a whale watching excursion.
So that afternoon we went on our whale watch, Jeff and Vic went on theirs and we all met back at the ship to trade stories and sightings. One added benefit was a trip through town, a loop in front of the Mendenhall Glacier and an eagle-filled marsh as we made our way to and from Auke Bay, the excursion harbor.
Each of us got to see humpback whales blowing, diving (with great looks at their hump) and tailing. Several whales and some good sightings. Jeff and Vic also saw sea lions piled on a channel marker. It turned out to be a good afternoon.
We really wanted to take the Tramway to the top of Mt. Roberts, but the cloud cover just made that unrealistic. Another great meal in the dining room, fancy desserts for Father’s Day, visits to the Martini Bar and we were off to Skagway.
It had been a great cruise so far, and more adventures lay ahead. Stay tuned, the adventure continues …
Part two of our adventure, from Skagway to Vancouver will follow soon. By the way, if you are planning a cruise, give our travel agent Cynthia Long (617-587-6000 x 38584) at CruisesOnly a call. She was a great help booking the trip and getting us some onboard credits and extras. Mention us and we can earn points.
Adventures with Doug and Jackie 
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